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Glass Dip Pens have been around for over three centuries, and it's easy to understand why - they're easy to clean, durable, and often gorgeous to boot. The versatility of their pen nibs' via sanding allows individuals to quickly and easily resharpen their nibs as needed or customize them with only a piece of wet/dry sandpaper. The only major downside for these beauties is that they can sometimes be too heavy/unwieldy for the small-handed like, and that they cannot carry pages of ink without refill. 

What to Look For in Good Glass

No Bubbles / Clear, Intentional Design Choices 

Many glass pens today come from mass manufacturing, which isn't necessarily a bad thing - this allows for the trial and use of glass dip pens by many for relatively low cost; however, it's important to note that not all mass-manufactured glass pens are made with the same quality in mind. If you'd like your new purchase to last, make sure to inspect it for air bubbles- any air bubbles or fractures in the glass should be very clear intentional design decisions by the glass artist, encased carefully in additional layers to protect and prevent stress fracturing. 

If you're buying an introductory glass dip pen, most likely the bubbles you see in your glass pen are manufacturer's defects caused by not shaking or melting out the bubbles in the glass. These can create stress in the design of the pen, leading to fracturing or unintentional breakage during regular use. If possible, look to inspect your pen prior to purchase to avoid receiving an unintentionally fragile piece. 

Materials

Borosilicate Dip Pens

Modern glass pens hand-made by artisans are most likely made with borosilicate glass (this used to be synonymous with Pyrex, but the two have since parted ways in synonymy as the Pyrex company has developed more products made with soda-lime glass - also known as soft glass). Borosilicate glass (AKA hard glass, or boro) is less susceptible to fracturing when exposed to rapidly changing temperatures, and more durable than soft glass once properly annealed, making it a favorite for hard-wearing works. However, it requires more expensive equipment to work with (high powered torches, and stronger safety eye wear), and can be more difficult to handle. These pens can potentially be repaired or the pen nib replaced if damaged.

Soda Lime Dip Pens

Soda lime glass can be used to produce glass dip pens, and is a favorite of manufacturers for more mass-produced dip pen works. It should be noted that while these pens are more appealing due to low cost, they can be more fragile and require greater care in use and storage. These pens can potentially be repaired or the pen nib replaced if damaged, but care must be taken by an artisan in reheating the pen to get it up to temperature, as soda lime glass is more prone to thermal shock. 

Crystal Dip Pens

Crystal is a type of glass with an extremely high lead oxide content - this produces an incredible brilliance and clarity making for beautiful - but highly delicate - dip pens. While it is possible to repair a Crystal Dip Pen, the high lead oxide content makes this glass extremely soft and delicate to work with, making repairs more difficult, and more often than not, unlikely for an artisan to take on.

Maintenance

Rinse After Use With Ink

Glass dip pens do not require much in the way of repeat maintenance. Rinsing your pen with water between uses is the best way to ensure longevity of the pen and prevent build-up of ink and large particles that may damage the nib over time. You may also use a damp cloth to wipe it clean between uses.

Store Your Pen Securely

Make sure when the pen is not in use to store it in a secure location where it cannot be scratched or bumped. Small fractures in the glass can lead to large breaks or chips that affect the overall performance and lasting durability of your pen. 

Sanding Your Pen Nib

As your pen nib is used, you may notice it wearing down or becoming dull over time. Paper is a very fine abrasive, and the silica or acrylic that makes up your pen will file down over repeated use. In order to revitalize a dull glass dip pen nib, simply dip your pen nib in water and rub it gently on wet micromesh or high-grit wet/dry zona sandpaper. Make sure to rotate the nib of the pen to get even sanding. Always make sure to use the micromesh or sandpaper wet to prevent accidental fractures or cracks.  

Repair

Repair of glass dip pens depends on the material used for construction. Please consult the glass dip pen types above for more information. If unsure on what type of glass or material was used, please reach out to the reseller or manufacturer of your pen. If we sold the pen here, we'll be able to tell you what material was used. 

The Nib Is Broken

No worries! Assuming the pen is made of some type of glass, It is entirely possible to melt off and replace a damaged nib. If you know the maker of your glass pen, you should contact them for more information in regards to the type of glass used in its construction/manufacturing to determine the type of material used. Your maker may even be able to provide repairs directly. Once the materials are known, you may be able to contact a flame-working artisan to repair or replace the damaged nib. While the nib may differ in function, a skilled artisan that has made glass dip pens will know how to reproduce most general shapes. Who knows - you may even end up with a nib you liked better than the one originally on the pen you bought! 

The Body is Broken

The body of a pen being damaged typically requires individual assessment from an artisan. Pen bodies are varied works of art, and depending on the complexity of work or intricacy of design, it may not be possible to fix a pen or wholly salvage a design. If you truly love the work of the artisan involved, it may be worth reaching out directly to see if they can fix the pen for you or provide a reproduction. 

 

While PenCat does not offer repair services for damaged glass dip pens at this time, this is a service we would like to offer in the future. Stay tuned! 

Table of Contents

My Pen Writes Scratchy

Is ink still coming out? Then this could be an issue with the nib itself. You can use a magnifying glass to take a closer look at the tines of your nib to ensure they are properly aligned. Misaligned nibs often create the sensation of extra grip or "scratching" on paper. After ensuring the tines are aligned, feel the end of the tip with your finger; be careful to run it gently. Do you feel any burrs or weird edges? It could be that the tip of your nib has etched from ink or developed a burr. This can You can fix this issue with high-grit micromesh and delicate wet-sanding, but be aware that most pen manufacturers will void warranties for sanding nibs, so please proceed at your own risk. You may instead wish to contact the manufacturer and ask for a replacement nib instead. If you do proceed with wet sanding, make sure to go slowly, and check the progress of your work periodically by testing the functionality of the nib with ink and paper to ensure you are satisfied with your work. 

My Pen Isn't Writing

Is your old fountain pen not working the way it did when you first bought it? This isn't necessarily a sign of irreversible damage. When your pen no longer allows a steady stream of ink through its feed, it's usually because old ink has dried and clogged the flow of ink. Often times fountain pens can be restored to original working order with just a few simple rinsing steps that you can perform at home.

When to Rinse Out Your Pen

It's recommended to perform this action every 3-4 weeks when storing ink in a pen that is not in use, or every time you change out the ink in an actively used pen in order to avoid ink clogs or damage. You may put the old ink back into the original bottle for reuse; you do not need to waste valuable money or ink.
Fill a glass with clean, cold water and gently swish the nib and feed of your pen in the glass to dislodge to dislodge dried ink particles. Never utilize hot water - this may warp the pen feed or damage the body your pen. When the water becomes too dirtied to see through, change out the water in your glass. If you are unable to fully dislodge the ink causing the blockage in your pen, attempt to use a syringe, cleaning kit pump, or your faucet (make sure to use a mesh drain strainer so you don't lose pieces of your pen!) to gently push additional water pressure through the nib and feed. 

For particularly tough clogs, put one drop of dish soap in a glass of room-temperature water, mix, and soak the nib over night (make sure not to do this with steel nibs that are not explicitly listed as stainless steel; they may rust). For non-stainless steel nibs, repeat the above steps with the dish soap water instead of clean water; do not leave your nib overnight. 

Most fountain pen inks are made with water-based inks that can be washed out of your pen if dried, but it's important to know that certain specialty inks may damage a pen if not removed prior to drying/their pigment suspension evaporating. 

Information on Inks in Relation to Maintenance

All inks are composed of at least these three primary ingredients:

1. Vehicle - A liquid that carries pigments or dyes
2. Binder - A chemical that binds the pigment or dye to its solution and to the paper
3. Coloring Agent – colored particles (i.e. pigments or dyes)

These ingredients affect the properties that we care about in ink in a variety of ways. 

Dye-Based Inks

These are your approachable, most forgiving-to-fountain-pen color soluble inks. While not always easily washable (lookin' at you, alcohol-based permanent markers), they can eventually get their way out of fountain pen mechanics if a similar soluble solution is applied. When doing this make sure to check for warnings and additional information on your pen, as we cannot be responsible for any damage caused by improper application of washing solutions to your fountain pens (for example, most TWSBI pens have warnings in their boxes and taped to the pens themselves stating that you cannot utilize alcohol with their pens, so alcohol-based cleaning solutions and inks should stay away). They tend to be less colorfast than pigment-based inks, but the trade-off may be worthwhile if you're looking to maintain the life of your pen and you're only looking to maintain a short-term record of your notes (i.e. 25-30 years, vs centuries). 

Pigment. Waterproof, and Archival Inks

While these inks may differ in function or suspension type, one notable link behind all these inks is that they very water resistant - once the ink in the pen begins to dry, the ink is very difficult to remove from your pen. If you're like me, make sure to set a reminder or alarm the day that you fill these pens to perform maintenance or remove the ink from them 3-4 weeks out from when you last filled. Otherwise, the ink may be very difficult to remove and your pen may not write or function as intended.

Shimmer / Pearl / Glitter / Iridescent Inks

These specialty ink types are notable because they have large particles that are added to the suspension of ink pigments. Unsure if you have one of these inks? Take a look at the bottom of your settled ink bottle - if there's large particles sitting on the bottom that can be shaken up and dispersed throughout your ink, then you have a Shimmer, Pearl, Glitter, or Iridescent Ink. While shimmer inks are more likely to clog over time, completely cleaning your fountain pen between refills and storing your pen horizontally on a flat surface while shimmer ink is in use are the best ways to help extend the life of your pen. Making sure to perform routine rinses and ink refills every 3-4 weeks or storing your pens empty between using shimmer inks are the best ways to ensure longevity.